Nantes - for starters

Nantes, with its population of 288,000, is the sixth largest city in France and has a lot to offer.  Regularly quoted in newspapers as being one of the nicest cities in France, Nantes is also renowned for being a rich, lively and innovative city. 

We started our tour at its core, the Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul.  The construction of this imposing building was spread over 457 years.  Its twin towers and the flamboyant gothic walls enclose a huge and beautiful place of worship.

 

 



The tomb of François II and Marguerite de Foix.

The Cathedral is a stunning Renaissance sculpture masterpiece.  We listened to an organ concert in late afternoon.  What acoustics!

Remembering Terry and all those relatives and friends who are struggling with health issues.

The Castle of the Dukes of Brittany, and the last castle on the banks of the Loire before the Atlantic ocean.  This is the home of the History of Nantes Museum, covering a period of 500 years. 

 

We took a ride on "Le Petit Train" to get a feel for the city and to situate all the sites we want to visit.  There is actually a "Green Line" painted on the streets throughout the city that you can follow by foot or by bike to see all the main attractions, but it is about 14 km long.  We realized that the city is so large and so full of interesting things, we will have to come back a few times, hence why this post is called "Nantes - for starters". 

An overcast day with a bit of a cool breeze, but we were dressed for it.  Better than 32 degrees of sweltering heat!  The following photos were taken from a moving train on cobblestone streets, so the focus is not always perfect.

 

Beautiful wrought iron balconies in the apartments above the commercial stores.

Place Royale.  The pedestrianized square surrounds the central blue granite fountain.  The marble statue representing Nantes armed with a trident dominates the bronze representation of the Loire and the four rivers running into it: Erdre, Sèvre, Cher and Loiret.

The Graslin Quarter, with its central square and Opera House.  It is surrounded by semi-pedestrianized streets.  As dusk falls, the lights around the fountain in the middle of the square start to play.
 

It is a very clean city; this is packaging material.

 
 








We are enjoying this!

 

 

Heading towards the Isle of Nantes.  There used to be rivers flowing through more parts of the city than now, but they have been filled and redirected.  The former industrial quarter and docks metamorphosed into a top spot for a town centre walk in a stylish urban project.

Next to the bridge (we can't see it from this angle) is The Memorial to the Abolition of Slavery.  2000 commemorative plaques are a reminder of every slave ship that ever left Nantes as well as the main trading posts in Africa and America.

Shipyard Park.  This public park covers 13 hectares and is set on the former ship-building yards which closed down in 1987.  The two Titan cranes are remnants of the industrial era and rise up above the western part of the Isle.  This yellow one was put on site in 1955 to raise boat blocks and enable assembly on the slipway.

Part of "La Fabrique" (artistic laboratory). 

The "Île Feydeau".  A magnificent example of the city's architecture evoking the extravagant way of life the maritime traders led in the 18th century, when the port of Nantes was the biggest in France and one of the most important in Europe.

The Rue Kervegan evokes the Dutch colony of the time.

Love the name of this shoe store: "Aux pieds des Anges" - At the Feet of Angels, or On the Feet of Angels.

We had our déjeuner at "Le Bouchon", which is off the tourist path and frequented by the locals.

Found the lighting in the restaurant very interesting.

A cold carrot soup with pieces of cheese, chives and bacon bits.  The red streak was beet purée and I wish I had used my bread to get every little drop...

Besides two hungry patrons, look at the lighting behind me.  They used a spoon to reflect the little light onto the wall, which made it look like candlelight!

I had a large round cod fish egg roll.  Can't think of another way to describe it.  It was delicious and sat in a spicy tomato purée with a "weed" salad on the side.  At least that's what Karl called the greens.  With all the bean sprouts and veggies wrapped in that little package, it was very filling.

Karl had a chicken stir fry with green curry which he absolutely loved.

We both had a chocolate gâteau, which I would call fudge it was so rich!  A scoop of Chantilly cream decorated with strawberries.

Wanted to show you the saucer to this cup.  It has a peg which fits into the bottom of the cup, so the cup is always centered.  Very clever!








So much to see and we haven't even gone to the Jules Verne museum, Les Machines, etc.  We'll be back soon.

***

"Mountains and oceans have whole worlds of innumerable wondrous features. 

We should understand that it is not only our distant surroundings that are like this,

but even what is right here, even a single drop of water."

~  Dogen Zenji